Friday, 23 December 2011

Hurgharda - 23/12/11 - Bus Ride and Arrival


Up at 7.10 and packed for 7.30 breakfast.  Out of the door by around 8.05.  We walked back past the small restaurant where we had lunched the day before and bought 4 more of his rolls for the trip.  We got to the bus well within the time limits (8.30) and by 9 we were on the road.


The first stop was Nasser City which is in the Giza area after which the buildings slowly became less and the sand more.  After about an hour and a half, we got our first glimpse of the Red Sea.  From there we drove along the toll road (very fancy Toll Plazas) and stopped at a lunch spot at around 11.30.  We traveled on a Go bus which is a luxury bus with a couple of TV screens (one of which didn't work - sadly individual speakers - and a toilet on board.  The bus ride was comfortable and the 6 hours passed uneventfully.  



 We stopped half way at a large eating place reminiscent of those that we had stopped at in Thailand.  Everywhere along the way there was building.  The coast will eventually become one huge tourist resort.


The bus terminus in Hurgharda was somewhat run down and, as in normal, we were approached by a very persistent taxi driver.  We told him where we were going and the negotiation began.  Starting at 80LE, I eventually got him down to 20LE.  Our travel book told us that we could get the trip in a minicab for 1LE (which subsequently turned out not to be true!) so I felt I had a good bargaining chip!  Once the price had been agreed upon, he transformed from agro to friendly.  The roads were relatively quiet, but the taxi driver still drove as if he had just come from Cairo.  


Once we got close he asked us which Sinbad - beach or aqua.  I chose Aqua.  He took us to the front door.  It turned out that I had made the wrong choice and we were walked to another resort (not far).  They asked us to sit while the receptionist went through the check in procedure.  He seemed to be doing  lot of phoning around as if there was a problem with the booking.  We got our key and a man insisted on taking s and our baggage to the room - which turned out to be 10m away. 





We were shocked by the stat of the place.  This was a 4 star establishment.  The couch in the lounge was dirty and sagging, the bed cover old, the fridge rust, and the bathroom door waterlogged.  Although the apartment had large windows, the view was over a broken wall which still seemed to be a building in progress.  I had booked a 4 star suite with two bedrooms!  I went back to the reception - extremely angry - and reminded them of this fact.  The receptionist came up by offering the adjacent room.  I pointed out that my main issue was the state of the room.  He told me to go back to the room and wait.  After about half an hour, there had still been no response.  I asked for a copy of my booking which he game me and I tried to phone RCI.  Before I could get through their endless options, my money ran out on the phone.  He offered me another room but this one was not self-catering.  The quality of this room was chalk an cheese. 


While still not really 4 star, it was a decent hotel room.  It was hard to believe that one hotel could have two such different rooms.  The porter mentioned to me that the problem was that all the self catering rooms were similar to the first room.  The new room had 3 beds and a veranda which overlooked a treed courtyard and was not far from the pool and then the beach.  Far more suitable, but the kids were not happy with the concept of sleeping in the other room.  Guy even offered to sleep on the floor.  I went out to get more airtime and within a few minutes fighting their system blew another 30LE - after that I gave up.  By this stage we were all tense and there was a need for a compromise.  I told the receptionist that if he could give me an extra bed in the new room, I would take what he had to offer.  The del was done and a nasty fold up bed was provided.



We took a walk down to the beach to see the rest of the resort.  The hotel had a small bay with a pier.  There were two fancy looking speed boats  and two submarines docked as well as a number of other boats.  As we watched the sun set, we slowly began to relax and get back into holiday mode.


It was around 7pm so we decided on a swim in the pool before going out to find food (to much to expect us to make our own tonight!).  There was no-one around so we got in and started the long swim around the circular pool.  After a short time, w avery uspet looking man approached us to tell us that the pool was closed.  We were not phased (or particularly surprised as there had been no-one about) so we cot out into the chilly evening air and returned to our room.


Once freshened up, we went out and started checking out our surroundings.  Very different from Cairo with tourist oriented shopping malls and more (but not excessively) expensive restaurants.  We walked further down the road and found a small shop selling vegetables and cheese and the kind of stuff that we would need to cater.  Finally, I think we felt that we could enjoy our week in Hurgharda with minimal disruption using one room as a sleeping room and the other for catering.



After our initial recce, we decided on a restaurant in the first mall we had visited.  Fiona and Lauren settled on mexican chicken and Guy and I had chicken cordon bleu.  The restaurant also sold beer (never seen in Cairo) so Fiona and I had a Saccara beer each.  The prices were much better than expected  (quart beers for 10LE).  In spite of the more eurocentric food, there were people smoking shishas all around us.  At the next table we heard the sound of English and a couple of others speaking Dutch.  This was surprising as in Hurgharda, the dominant language is Russian.  They were staying at a place about 20km away building a resort.  They provided us with a lot of useful advice about where to go in the area and how much we should pay to get there.  After an enjoyable meal, we returned back for coffee and chocolate.

Thursday, 22 December 2011

Cairo - 22/12/11 - Nile Walk to the Nilometer

Our last day in Cairo during this leg of the trip. we decide to walk along the Nile, after purchasing our bus tickets to Hurgharda (320LE for the four of us).


As is our way, the walk turned out to be more of a trek.  The route took us from the Egyptian museum along the Nile to the southern ti of Roda Island to visit the Nilometer (we had missed this when we visited Coptic Cairo).  Along the way we crossed over to the  island of caple at times and bought some food to feed the beast - anyone read Kitchen Confindential? (Guy - who seems to have a continuous need for food as he continues to grow).  



 On the last crossing, we were starting to wonder if we had take the right road as we walked past a densely populated area.  Suddenly the hi-rise flats ended and ahead of us was the entrance.  The place was deserted and we were starting to think that it was closed when a man in uniform beckoned us to walk past the security bag system  (which was not being manned) to where he was sitting.  He directed us to a woman selling tickets (15LE and 8LE) and then to the main event.  We found a man who was clearly the keeper who took us in through the locked door of a circular building with a tall column set in the cntre which went down below floor level and had gradients.  We were allowed to take a narrow stair case to the bottom.   Well satisfied, we relaxed in the surrounding gardens before heading out to find the metro.  


An ornate foot bridge took us back to the other side, but having reached there, we could find no clear direction to the metro..  After 10 minutes walking between tightly packed buildings and providing a great source of interest and entertainment to the locals, we eventually realized that we were lost.  A guy in a smart suit directed us back in the opposite direction and eventually we located the metro station.  We'd done this before, so the metro was easy - but very packed this time - back to Nasser station.



 Before returning home, Lauren had one other plan for us.  This was to go up the Cairo Tower.  We could see it across the river and it didn't seem too far away.  It was fairly late already and we knew that we would need to get there before sun down.  We had to walk fast.  We made it in time but when we found out what the costs were (around 80LE each) it was definitely not worth it.  We took a far slower walk back - tired and hungry but we were able to enjoy some stunning views of the tower as the sun went down.  We were also taken by the numerous political murals sprayed on to the walls on the way homw







 We found a small shop where we sat down to mince rolls and pickles (2LE per roll) and finished it off with a very impressive fruit salad in a beer mug (2.50LE).  Definitely will return there.


  



  On the way back, we found a bottle store and decided to buy some wine as we expected prices in Hurgharda to be high.  At first glance, the standard labels were on show, but on closer examination , these were made by Egyptian drnks companies.  Eg:  Cheval Rigal in a bottle that looked a lot like Chivas Regal, but sold for only 40LE.  We bought a Johnny Walker Red Label look alike and two bottles of Egyptian wine for a total of 100LE.



We returned and left the children in the room while Fiona and I went out to get some cash then sorted out our bill and retured to the Kushari Tahir for our last meal in Cairo.  Not as good as the previous time - probably because our waiter had no idea what were talking about.  After dinner, I think we were all a little down, so we went to the main road to find some ice cream.  Having tried out the two available  options, we settled on the same place we had eaten the night before.  For 4LE, we got tow large scoops and a double cone.  While we stood there eating our ice creams, a woman came past Guy and bumped him.  Then she returned with the standard Egyptian question "What's your name?  Where are you from?"  We told her .  She seemed dissatisfied.  Looking at Fiona, she said she thought she was Egyptian.  Fiona said No.  The woman suddenly shouted something in arabic (probably swore) and walked off.  I suspect that at that stage she realized that Fiona was telling the truth as our surprised faces probably told her that we knew not a word of what she had said!  After that we went to our standard cafe ( the man there remembered Lauren from the previous day as she had been hiccoughing).


We came down for our evening whisky (not shy about drinking alcohol in  the hotel any more - but careful not to make it too obvious) and cards and then said our goodbyes to Mohamed .  A better nights sleep as we spent half an hour killing mosquitos before we put the lights out.