So the day had finally arrived and after going down for a standard (non- Egyptian) breakfast, it was back to the room to pack our bags for safekeeping at the hotel. We confirmed the cost of a taxi with Abraham to ensure that we have as close as soon as possible to the correct amount of cash. We were aware of the fact that converting Egyptian LE back to dollars would not be beneficial!
We then headed out past Khan Khalili to the Northern Ciy of the Dead. The road took us past the markets to the main highway that leads out to the airport. People and taxis were frenetic and the highway was jam packed. Fortunately there was a pedestrian bridge corssing the main highway which also provided for good photo opportunities. Coming down the other side,of the bridge was like being in another city. Al was quiet with few people around. Each of the grave sites was walled and most of them were locked. We walked on the narrow roads between high walls with metal gates that allow you to view the generally mundane head stones.
As we continued, we branched off the road into an open (not locked) site and walked between the eiry stones as well as the occasional house where people have built homes on the grave sites. We wandered aimlessly for about an hour, stopping at the odd mausoleum, most of which were locked. Nothing was in anything other than arabic, so most of the time we weren't sure exactly where we were. For this first time on our trip it may have been useful to have a guide - but there were none to be found.
Making our way across the cemetery, we stopped at a walled garden with a Mausoleum before finding our way to a mosque. A man approached us (as regularly happens in Egypt) and lead us in using broken english, he explained that people in the area made the beautiful stain-glass winows. Then to our surprise, he went off to pray. At that moment, another man appeared who we realized was the caretaker. When we left we gave him a tip. 
After this, the original man appeared to confirm that we had in fact given the caretaker a tip. He then headed back to what was clearly his shop by the mosque. Looking closer, there was glass blowing taking place at the back of his shop. We beconed him again and asked if we could watch. It was one of these amazing experiences when you travel. He showed us a magazine with an article written in French. It turned out that glass blowing ws a family tradition and it was his family tradition and it was his family that was responsible for the stain-glass windows. We watched the glass blower produce a jug and and a watering jug ad then of course had to buy something. We settled on a vinegar jug with a spout and glass coiled around it (40LE). He also directed us to the next mausoleum that was listed in our guide book.
Totally awed by the experience we had just had, we walked on to see Sultan Barsbby's Mausoleum and the large mausoleum of Sultan Barquq which doubled as a mosque with minarettes and a large open area (we had finally worked out where we were). After this, we decided to make our way back. We did this, passing one or two smaller mausoleums and found the road that lead back to the foot bridge.
After crossing the bridge, we realized that we would need to feed the beast before heading back so we found some street food from a couple of small shops on the sidewalk to keep us going.On the way back, we let the children take a last look at the market and traced the previous nights steps to the spice market to buy some chilli spice. We got back at around 3 (transport leaving at 8). First went out to buy Lauren's tea (she was determined that the Egyptian tea was far better than anything in South Africa) then back to drop this off and out for a last fruit salad, back for a shower, change of clothes, last pack and out for some food.
We decided on cusherie - quick and cheap (by this time cash was short). We were back and ready to go by around 7.30 
After some tea and a discussion about religion with Mohamed, we went down with him to wait for the minivan. The traffic was still frantic and it took another 20 minutes or so standing on the road waiting. Every now and again, passengers and drivers of the slowly passing cars would strike up a conversation with us or Guy or Lauren. The taxi finally arrived and it was a fairly run down minivan but more than adequate for our needs. At first he went on the highway but then turned off to what seemed to be back streets and then back on to another highway. All along the way there were traffic jams and hooting. A final goodbye to an amazing city!
We were dropped off at the airport and we went to what seemed to be the ticket counters through a bag checking X-ray machine. This was before large baggage had been put through which was a little strange. They stopped me because I had bottles in my bag (one was the empty Egyptian whisky bottle and the other a bottle of wine). The man then made a big deal of 'allowing me to go ahead' He probably wanted some backsheesh but I had no intention of satisfying his needs. We found the ticket counter and checked our bags through. Then we found the departure area (to get into it we had to give up our bottle of water and some scissors that guy had brought. Before long we wre through and up in the air back to South Africa.
The trip back was painless and when 6am came around and people started moving I felt that I had had at least some sleep.
