Tuesday, 20 December 2011

Cairo - 20/12 - Coptic Cairo and Belly Dancing

 We got up late after our somewhat sleepless night (from the gunfire) and checked the early morning TV.  The TV had a video picture of Tahir square but by now all was quiet again.  Apparently the police had had a crackdown the night before - burning the tents that had been set up.  We had an Egyptian breakfast and walked to the Nasser metro station.  From there - at a price of 1LE, we got a very efficient ride to Mar Girgis (this is the name that the Egyptians gave to St George).
  

We first visited the hanging church so called because it was built on top of the water gate of the old Roman fortress of Babylon.  We entered through a courtyard with friezes on the walls from the 11th century and then in to the main church - all with elaborate finishes.  From a small chapel on the side you could see  part of the roman water gate. 



We then located the church of St George.  The church is circular  as it was built on top of a roman gate tower, which is visible from parts of the church - and from the entrance area of the museum..  This was flooded when the nile was flooded.  The church had all sorts of pictures of St George slaying the dragon as well as a beautiful inlaid ceiling.  





 Next we visited the Coptic museum.  It was a well put together and labelled  museum and in many ways  for me brought together the connection between the various religions as well as the links between the pharoic times  and christianity.

 After this we took the subterranean entrance into the walls of 'Old Cairo' - avoiding the people selling post cards and miniature pyramids, we visited the church of St Serguis. This church is built on the cave where Mary and Joseph are believed to have hidden on their way to Jerusalem.  The cave has been preserved in the form of a crypt and has been cleaned and drained of water (couldn't go in but could look into it). 



  Next we saw the church of St Barbara. Fiona got all excited as it was  a female saint so we had to check it out.  Next top was the synagogue which, while no longer in use , has been preserved by the Egyptians as in Egypt no document bearing the name of God may be destroyed (also means there is a huge history that has been preserved).





We then found a tomb, but there was not much to see so we returned to the street to find food for our now ravenous children.  The local cafe was geared towards tourists - although when we turned them down they did offer to halve their rates - so we decided to take the metro back.  


I managed to lead us in the wrong direction - although as always the street side stalls were fascinating, it was a 'spare parts area' so there was everything from rubber grommets to car doors being offered on the side of the street.
  We back tracked to the station and after being given directions form a helpful couple - we eventually worked out that no compensation was expected.
  


Cairo is actually full of very helpful people, bit its hard to distinguish from those looking to ' show us their shop - don't have to buy' and genuine good Samaritans.


At the corner by the metro was a crowd on the steps of a large building chanting.  We had become somewhat blazee  about this kind of thing so we took some photos and moved on.  Opposite was a schwarma place and, after establishing that it had an upper storey, we decided to stop there for a late lunch. After lunch, we returned to the Cairo Moon to find that we only had an hour or so before being picked up for our evening's entertainment.  
We relaxed for an hour  - not as exhausted as usual as there had been less walking , and then we were picked up at  around 6pm by Raol for the fairly long drive to our boat on the Nile.


  We had pre-paid with the hotel (175LE each) for a buffet and belly dancing.  The boat was only about a quarter full (there were 2 decks and the lower one was half full).  





The diners included a fairly large group of Japanese tourist (we had seen them earlier in the coptic christian area).  The lights came on for the food and the Japanese quickly formed a long queue - even beating Guy to the post.  Guy and Lauren watched the desserts being dessimated, so decided to get that first so there would be enough for later - turned out to be a good idea as the best ones were gone by the time Fiona and I had the opportunity.  We had soup and before long were able to enjoy a buffet which was a western/Egyptian combination.  The Egyptian flat breads and pickled veggies and the western chicken, roast meat and fish.  It was a decent standard buffet and the food was accompanied by a guy on the piano with a singer crooning ancient renditions of Elvis and the like.


  Once the main course was over, the drummers arrived to get the group going for the belly dancer.  Soon she joined them - a well endowed, very white and I thought very capable girl who did a fairly long show with all the standard moves.  Fiona wasn't too impressed and the kids felt that there should have been more dancers.  Once she finished, we went upstairs to the top deck to enjoy the coolth of the evening and the view of the Nile.




We suspected that there was more on offer so we returned to find the belly dancer had been replaced by a man with what looked like a wide dress on.  He turned out to be a whirling dervish (or samaas).  
Our book says that the camelhair hats represent tombstones, the black cloaks the tomb itself and the white skirts shrouds.  Ours was multicoloured, so I don't know there he fitted in!  The music was fast, hypnotizing and continuous as he twirled around and around.  At first with 5 wooden ornate plates which he  moved into various shapes as he continued to twirl.  Then he got rid of the plates and did the same with pieces of material.  Suddenly the lights on his tunic came on and the house lights dimmed.  His single outfit became two and he looked like a double storey flying saucer.    Al along he continued to twirl.  Finally he brought the top part up over his head and the man himself vanished from sight.  As his show ended, he held out one of the outfits above his head and walked round the audience for photo opportunities (the bely dancer had done the same).  We had our picture taken but did not buy the overpriced result.

Once finished, we went back upstairs - far more satisfied with the results of the evening.  Guy went down every few minutes to see if there was anthing else and eventually reported that the belly dancer had returned in a different outfit.  Fiona stayed upstairs and the rest of us went down to watch her trying to get various people ono to the stage to dance with her.  By the time she asked me, Fiona had returned and I decided not to go.  This is what happens when 1 tot of anything costs 35LE!.





Our driver had waited with us on the boat and we returned to the hotel.  On the way, we came upon a crowd of protesters.  They were non-aggressive and the leader told our driver which way to go to avoid them.  We waited for them to pass and then continued on.  We got back at around 10.30 - earlier than expected but still happy with our night on the town.